Fortress of Massa Marittima
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The building curtains between 'Old Town' and 'New Town' |
The S.Francesco gate. |
The city of Massa Marittima rises on a hill 380 meters high on the 'Colline
Metallifere' in the area of Tuscan Maremma. It can easily reached from Siena
following SS73 up to the Alternative of the 'Madonnino', SS441 up to the union with SS439
that, following the direction to Follonica, conducts under the walls of the 'old
town'.
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The 'Public Palace' |
Massa Marittima, that despite the name its more than twenty kilometers far
from the sea, is considered one of the medieval jewels of Tuscany. Its origins
are wounded by mystery and traces of human settlements of the Bronze Age have
been found in its outskirts. In the Etruscan period
the zone was known for the wealth of its mines and is probably that the actual
city was once the Roman 'Massa Veternense'. After this periods the settlement
remained at the borders of the history at least until the 9th century, when
it became center of the Episcopalian power thanks to the transfer of the Bishop's
Main Seat from Populonia, due to the degrade and
abandonment of this city. The Bishop preferred to leave the coast, became marshy
and object of continuous raids of the Greek and Saracens pirates, to retire
the court in the heart of the 'Colline Metallifere'. It seems that first wasn't
selected Massa Marittima as seat, in fact are of 1016 the first certain traces
of the existence on the site of a church and of the beginning of the 12th century
those of the constitution of an Episcopal center.
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The Cathedral. |
In the 1225 Massa becomes a free common, detaching definitely from the Episcopalian
control, and from this time begun a period of great prosperity for the city,
thanks to the commercial exploitation of the mineral (iron, copper, lead, silver)
of which the zone was rich, so much that the name of the town was changed in
'Massa Metallorum'. Of this epoch are the great monuments as the Romanic-Gothic
Cathedral (initiated perhaps already in the 12th century), the Praetorian Palace
and the Public Palace (1230), the Public Fountain (1265) all inside the town
walls of the down town, still today gifted of two splendid gates (called Salnitro
and S.Bernardino). Then was launched a grandiose plain of transformation of
the upper city, call subsequently 'New Town', and here was uttered the 'Codice
Minerario', one of the most important juridical medieval documents of Italy
and perhaps the most ancient example of job-legislation, with the purpose to
control all the extractive, mining and entrepreneurial activities. In the first
years of 1300 the city counted between the 10.000 and 20.000 inhabitants.
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The Public Fountain. |
The prosperity, together with the strategic position, attracted on the city
the aims of Pisa, Siena and Florence, in whose arguments Massa was involved
up to 1337, when it fell under the Senese domination. Siena immediately planned,
thanks to the imposition of strong taxes to the citizens, the reconstruction
and the enlargement of the fortifications: a second walls circuit was
erected all around the 'New Town' and, sited between the 'two towns', the Fortress.
This acted in practice as 'zipper' between the old and new town, dominating
both, englobing the ancient fortress and Episcopalian residence of Monteregio
(of which don't remain traces) and the primitive Keep, the 'Candeliere tower'
today reduced of a third part of its original height, joined to the walls from
a bridge with rampant arc. In this point, to the vertex of the Moncini street
that colleague the two town parts, rises the magnificent gate 'Alle Silici',
with a double breteche (a small projection beyond the wall that covers the entrance
below), perhaps the most beautiful and still intact medieval town gate of Tuscany.
The form of the Senese fortress is like a 'butterfly', in fact the two
wall curtains are separated by only 15 meters at north, in correspondence of
the aforesaid gate, and by 42 at south, where they englobed the Episcopalian
fortress. These defensive system was studied with the purpose to guarantee
safety and external contacts in the case that both the parts of the city fallen
in hostile hands. The town walls have the same characteristics of the fortress,
endowed with machicoulis (opening between the corbels of the parapet through
which the defenders can drop rocks or fire projectiles against an enemy directly
below them) in stone, alternated by many square towers. Today are still intact
the S.Francesco gate and the whole eastern side of the enclosure while a big
part of the western side was demolished between the 18th and 19th century.
The year 1348 plague and the loss of the autonomy caused the decline of Massa,
so much that in 1408 the population was reduced to 400 persons. In 1555, defeated
the Senesis from Charles' V° army allied with that Florentine of the Medici,
the city was attached to the Granduchy of Tuscany. However, it was only thanks
to the reclamation of the 18th century, made by the Lorena, that the zone reborned
with the development of the agriculture and of the extractive activities. The
city has been rediscovered, especially in last century, from historical, researchers
and artists that have contributed to bring its historical patrimony to the ancient
shine, thanks to great works restorations. Today the town center of Massa Marittima
is a forced destination for all the lovers of the Middle Age that visit
Tuscany.
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